Can you see it in Disk Management (even though it’s not given drive letter)? From what you write it’s hard to tell whether you can access it or not.
WD50000D032 REMOVE CASE DOWNLOAD
can access it in Windows), download the corresponding drive fitness tool or get the Ultimate BootCD to test from there (it’s a very convenient live cd). If you can identify the drive by brand (viz. Puddles there are various tools for checking the hard disk for errors. You should also check out the two links in the intro for details about other MyBook models. If you have any questions about the details or comments about this post, please use the comment form. As a "temporary solution" I’d put my whole /home/ dir in there a while before it collapsed. I saved myself and a lot of other people half a year of work at least. It’s the pr0n, I mean the data, that matters the most.Īnd that was the other thing. The hardware is not the important thing here.
Not only did I save face to those eff-heads at the computer store who told me it was no way there was any other option than replacing it under the warranty. Here’s an overview of the gutted Western Digital 500GB Premium Edition It was simply a six-month chassis failure. And guess what? Everything was intact!Ĭhkdsk returned no errors whatsoever. If you’ve thought ahead, just slip the newly free’d drive into an adapter or a stationary PC. I also shot a snap of the Western Digital 500GB Premium Edition motherboard so to speak, for those who take an interest in that kind of stuff. There’s a photo of it here still lying in the protective container. In the end it turned out to be a 3.5" SATA Western Digital hard disk drive. It doesn’t matter whether you like it or not, only screwing will get you your data back. Piece by piece you just unscrew every screw you come over. If your drive is an IDE (as I thought this was) and not a SATA drive, then you should be careful not to damage the pins. There’s a protective tape covering the connectors. There are 13 or so plastic hinges:ĭespite what I had read in other tutorials, the round power button at the front was not attached (or at least not stuck) to the little green LED/power up controller.Īlas, it was only a 3.5" HDD after all. When done start prying the case open carefully. With your flat-head screwdriver remove the rubber band that runs around the chassis edges
You can click the pics for a 1024×768 version, all thanks to my cousin Kekepower! Here we go. But that’s enough of the personal opinions. Being that this HDD contained sensitive information as well, I couldn’t risk handing it over to some doofus who’d just re-partition it and sell it as is. A simple HDD USB or FW adapter seems to be the way to go, considering both the pricing and the data safety aspect of it. Thinking about it I don’t know why I still use this kind of chassis. In addition, there was an important "temporary" backup of my own stuff on it that I held very dearly. Looking around the net seemed to confirm my suspicion. There had been no prior warnings, no clicks-of-death, so I suspected that the error was in the Western Digital chassis firmware/chip and not the hard disk itself. One day when I came into the office it just wouldn’t turn on. Well, let’s just say that this WD500GB was a replacement for a previous 320GB model that faulted the same way as this one. And since we’re going to be opening this chassis.įirst of all I should probably explain why I’m doing this. Remove the power adapter from the unit and hold the on-button in for 10 seconds to remove any remaining current. As usual you should never play with electronics without the proper care. I thought I’d supplement with my own pictures from the process, and I think you’ll find most of them self-explanatory. Many thanks to Don Insalata and Rich Andrews for their wonderful tutorials.
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